He mused about the advertising claims, observing that steel in the blade has to get pretty hot before the molecular structure changes and damages the blade. No business likes getting tickled in the pocketbook.Ī few years later I was discussing this with Chuck Olson of Olson Saw (now retired). I figure their advertising sales department may have had a hand in that decision. The article quickly went to the trash can.
Turns out that the perpetrator and advertiser of phule blocks and had gotten his nose out of joint because other people were offering competing products. I did this test because a hobby woodworking magazine asked me too. Besides the friction issue, I quickly observed that the softer material would dent under the set screw pressure thus making it difficult if not impossible to fine-adjust for wear. The other materials wore away some including the black phenolic phule blocks. Teflon wasn't too bad but wore away so quickly as to be considered a non-starter.
All gave about a one amp reading difference except the steel. I even made up blocks from other materials like various woods and plastics including teflon. I'd install the various blocks, turn on the saw, pinch the blocks against the blade and read the amp meter. The 14" bandsaw motor was a 1/2 HP so it would give some good comparative amp readings on the friction differences. I made up a pinch clamp to clamp the guides together against the blade. I got some phule blocks and other plastic side guides that were on the market at the time. Once I got some 1/2" metal cutting blades since they had lots of surface. Different stock numbers will quantify which wheel cover style parts will be needed, but that's not the issue here. The 28-200 is pretty much a generic stock number for all USA-made Delta wood cutting band saws when it comes to guide and drive parts. Get a bracket that fits the Delta 28-200 and you'll be good. That side guide holding bracket is a commonly broken part and a not very expensive part to boot. Non-steel side guides like phule blocks create more friction than steel. The other saws that I've had with the roller guides were changed to steel block side guides and I'm much happier with them. I have one band saw with roller guides and I really don't like them but I muddle through. Roller side guides emboss sawdust on the blade plus the bearings get sawdust in them or have the surrounding sawdust leach the lubricating oil out of the grease and thus wear out faster. The steel side guides is the best of all worlds. The slot for adjusting in and out on the back of the bracket is on the opposite side and thus will not work with the USA-made machines. "Import" band saws have the same looking bracket but there's a "gotcha" detail.
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